Grape Muttations
A Cellargal* Book and Wine Pairing
Inspired by the
By Suzanne Collins
A grape cross is a variety that has been created, either naturally or manmade, by crossing two vine varieties of the same species. For example, Cabernet Sauvignon is actually a cross of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc that is said to have occurred spontaneously in the vineyards of Bordeaux prior to the 18th Century., while Pinotage is a genetically engineered cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, the product of an effort in South Africa in the 50s to develop a varietal with Pinot Noir’s aromatics and the heartiness of Cinsault, which could withstand the harsh growing conditions of the region.
A grape hybrid is the offspring of two varietes of different species. These can also occur naturally or on purpose. The French Baco Noir is a hybrid varietal.
A grape mutation is a spontaneous change to genetic material occurring during cell division in the grapevine itself. Here's a factoid to note: ancient grape varietals were dark-skinned; the light-skinned characteristic in vinifera grapes is actually the result of a mutation. Mutation is generally thought to be negative (think recessive trait) but man has had many centuries to select those vines which perform best, a process called clonal selection, thus enabling vines that start as mutations (e.g. Pinot Blanc or Grenache Blanc) to survive and reproduce independently.
A grape hybrid is the offspring of two varietes of different species. These can also occur naturally or on purpose. The French Baco Noir is a hybrid varietal.
A grape mutation is a spontaneous change to genetic material occurring during cell division in the grapevine itself. Here's a factoid to note: ancient grape varietals were dark-skinned; the light-skinned characteristic in vinifera grapes is actually the result of a mutation. Mutation is generally thought to be negative (think recessive trait) but man has had many centuries to select those vines which perform best, a process called clonal selection, thus enabling vines that start as mutations (e.g. Pinot Blanc or Grenache Blanc) to survive and reproduce independently.
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The Wines:
100% Bukettraube [Cross: Silvaner x Schiava Grossa]. Sebastian Englerth is supposed to have created this cross in Randersacker in the 19th century (Germany), although an Alsatian origin has also been claimed.
2009 Racine de la Terre Marselan IGP Pays d'Oc
100% Estate grown Marselan [Cross: Cabernet Sauvignon x Grenache], A new crossing of Cabernet and Grenache Noir made by the INRA and authorized for VdP in France in 1990. Developed specifically for the Langeudoc, where it copes with wet and dry growing seasons and while being resistant to vineyard diseases.
2008 Henry of Pelham Baco Noir
100% Baco Noir [Hybrid: Folle Blanch (Vitis Vinifera) + variety of Vitis Riparia ]. It’s parents are the Vitis Vinifera varietal Folle Blanche and a variety of Vitis Riparia, mated in 1894 by nurseryman Francois Baco, (famous in his day and through most of the 20th century for his successful Baco Blanc and other hybrids) with the intent creating a phylloxera-resistant red grape varietal sibling to the white hybrid, Baco Blanc.
2004 Bründlmayer St. Laurent Ried Ladner
100% St. Laurent [Mutation: from Pinot Noir]. St. Laurent is a traditional Austrian grape variety – and presumably was named for its early maturity around the Catholic calendar day of St. Laurence rather than for a French village. Nevertheless, genetic sequencing reveals a close relationship to Pinot Noir. Over the centuries, the mutation-prone variety has undergone a process of adaptation to Austria's terroir and now shows more texture, color, tannins, and fruity flavors than its famous relative.
2008 Viñedos de Ithaca "Akyles" Priorat
Field Blend; contains Garnacha, Cariñena, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, plus Grenache mutations Garnatxa Peluda & Garnatxa Blanca; Touriga Nacional and Pedro Ximenez. Grenache Blanc is an albino mutation of Grenache Noir; Grenache “peluda” is a fuzzy-skinned version (from Spanish “pelo” – “hairy”).
